The Gypsy Fair!

Lately I’ve been going on and on about freedom camping – mostly because Care and I are getting into the “renegade” aspect of life on the road, but also because we spend a good deal of our day in the van. However, as cool as our van Flash is, and as good as we think we're getting at freedom camping, we can’t hold a candle to the folk that comprise the Gypsy Fair. I’d heard about these “houses on wheels” from other experienced freedom campers along the way, but I’d written off the stories of fully functioning house-trucks as elaborate exaggerations. How would the house trucks drive around? Wouldn’t they fall off? Where would they park at night? Turns out everything I'd heard was true. The Gypsy Fair is a conglomeration of lifestyle freedom campers throughout New Zealand that build and maintain their own uniquely designed wooden frame houses on the backs of trucks, big rigs, converted vehicles of all shapes and sizes, and even hitched trailers. They drive around New Zealand setting up at fair grounds and parks on specified dates to entertain locals and tourists alike, sell their handicrafts, food, and goods, and to basically educate people about their alternative lifestyle. These amazing structures are all “self-contained” and compliant with the strict regulations New Zealand places on freedom campers, but they do so with an amazing flair for design and detail. Honestly some of these houses are bigger than my apartment in New York City. They have wood burning stoves, fireplaces, second-floor bedrooms, and even back porches complete with rocking chairs and flower pots. It’s really incredible to see what some of these artisans and craftsmen put together.
The coolest part of this hodge podge nomadic village is that they are always seeking new members. The only stipulation is that applicants be self-sufficient and provide a marketable service or sell a unique good that is not already in the group. That’s what really got me interested in the Gypsy Fair – they're not just hippies driving love buses trying to change the world with “good vibes”. Nope. They've got marketing savvy. They're a viable economic entity that understands that while independence and freedom are crucial to an alternative lifestyle, so is making that lifestyle sustainable. Just like the rest of us, they have to make money, pay for things, sell goods, and keep a healthy community running. It’s great to see that the obstacles that we all face in normal society are the same as those in the Gypsy Fair. They just choose to solve the same problems from a slightly different perspective – the driver’s seat. Care and I were so happy to see this unique New Zealand experience, and we spent the rest of the afternoon daydreaming about what we could contribute to earn a spot in the Gypsy Fair. Wooden swords? Nope, they already sell those. Cotton candy? Old news. Musician? They’ve got five. Miniature ponies? Aluminum can artwork? A tattoo artist? Got it, got it, and, ouch, they got it. After running out of ideas that the Gypsys hadn’t thought of first, we gave up the dream of joining their clan and continued down the road Hans-style...solo.

Nelson

Oh Nelson…what can I say about you? Robbery, apple picking, all you can eat pizza deals, freedom camping, the beach, the library – all of these things shaped our time in the principle city of the Nelson Region on the South Island. Freedom camping is the only way to stay in Nelson for any extended period of time, and Care and I parked at our fair share of locations. The three that were the most effective were (in order of ease): The Kinzett Terrace carpark at the north end of town Tahunanui Beach on the west edge of town The carpark near the yacht club – surprising but true The overall attitude of people in town towards freedom campers is begrudgingly accepting. Nelson is a focal point for trampers headed to the Abel Tasman National Park and the West Coast, as well as backpackers looking for fruit picking work, so they get that people are going to be loitering for a bit. The economy in the area depends heavily on tourist dollars and low-paid backpacker picking labor, so during the apple season the town sets aside a few areas where they turn a blind eye to campers – most notably Kinzett Terrace. We actually got a printed flyer from a security guard telling us it was ok to sleep there. But Tahunanui Beach has more amenities like water, cold showers, toilets, beach access, and a small library annex with free WiFi, so it's a better fit for a lot of short-term campers. For long-term campers like us, pricey holiday park accommodation simply isn’t an option. So we did run into some hassles, and we had our car broken into at one point, but that was in the middle of the day and didn’t happen at any of the sites mentioned above. We saved a lot of money by staying in Nelson 16 nights over the course of a month, but we're still a bit undecided on whether it was worth all the effort. Freedom camping really makes you appreciate the simple luxuries of running water, sinks, and toilets inside a house.
Aside from all that, Nelson is great. The Information Site is helpful and well staffed, public bathrooms are everywhere, the movie theater has current films, a few bars in the area serve great brews and have WiFi, and there is free (but slow) WiFi at the central library. Care and I were at the library a lot – it’s where this blog was born - and we enjoyed our stay in town. Drink and food deals exist at different places throughout the week, but our favorite spot was 623 Bar. On Wednesdays they have all you can eat pizza for $15. Done. Care and I actually went there for St. Patrick’s Day and scarfed ourselves into a coma on five different gourmet pizzas, including one deliciously rich banana chocolate dessert pizza. We waddled out of that place exhausted but proud. It’s hard to sum up Nelson into one post, yet it’s not quite worthy of being split up into more. Should we have stayed as long as we did? No. Were parts of it really cool? Sure. Freedom camping, free WiFi, and pizza, pizza, pizza. Not a bad combo, but Care and I were happy to move on.
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The Elusive Kiwi and Pelorus Bridge

Our first decision on the South Island was to vote against heading north into the Queen Charlotte Sound, even though it’s highly recommended. The tours are pricey, the roads are unpaved, and while the hiking is supposed to be epic, we’re more stoked to hike/kayak the Abel Tasman National Park – a five day excursion. We don’t want to peak before we get to the Tasman. So we headed west. On the way to Marahau (the entry point for the Abel Tasman Park), we found a great little DOC campsite called Pelorus Bridge. I’m a big fan of freedom camping, but this Serviced DOC campsite is one that I can highly recommend. The facilities at Serviced sites are a lot nicer than the Basic or Standard DOC sites and traditionally feature gas cookers, flush toilets, ample space for camping, excellent trails through the woods, and a hot shower – so worth ten bucks a night. We planned on hiking down to the river, but as I was shoveling down some cocoa pops, nature came to us. Out of nowhere Carolyn freaked out behind the van. She squealed, “KIWI!! I SEE A BABY KIWI!!! BLAAAARGGGRAAAAAGGGGRRGRH KIWIIIIIIIIIIII!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!” I dove out of the van to see the elusive bird, confused that it was out during the daytime (they’re nocturnal) and saw instead a little brown bird with huge feet. It resembled a kiwi, but didn’t look quite right. The beak was too short and the talons on its feet were gargatumongahugical. Much to our dismay we found out the bird wasn’t a kiwi – it was another flightless bird, the weka. It didn’t matter though because it was fun to feed the curious family. Pelorus Bridge provided us with a nice hot shower, our first kiwi false alarm, and our first weka sighting. Not too shabby.

Guide to DOC Campsites in New Zealand by Shawn Forno The Department of Conservation – or DOC – is a campervan or backpacker’s best friend in New Zealand. This government established organization exists to ensure that a large number of recreation areas, rest stops, dive and snorkel sites, locations, protected habitat...read more

"Kiwi Sighting" - a comic by Shawn Forno

Next stop, the South Island!

After an excellent week in Wellington, we finally bid farewell to the North Island. The North Island has been good to us, but we’re stoked to head down to the beautiful South Island before the weather turns too cold. Apparently once it happens it’s brutal. Our tickets for the Interislander ferry were actually pretty affordable - NZ$220 total for 2 people and a van. Bluebridge is the other Cook Strait ferry, and we found that one isn't consistently cheaper than the other, it just depends on the day. Also, prices are a lot lower if you've done your planning and can book a ferry date in advance (as per usual, we had not). But we were able to book a mid-morning sailing – the most beautiful part of the ride is when the ship enters the Queen Charlotte Sound during the last hour of the trip. So we settled into our comfy reclining seats by the window and lazed away the morning. The ship we were on wasn’t what we imagined – a hollowed out freighter with rickety car ramps. Instead it was a nine deck marvel. I’ve worked on cruise ships in Hawaii, so I’ve seen luxury vessels underway, and while the Interislander ship might not be up to those same standards, it is way more impressive than it has a right to be for the quick three hour voyage. It comes equipped with a movie theater on the lower deck, several cafés and eateries, coffee shops on the upper decks, fully reclining seats, kids’ areas where boisterous youngsters can watch cartoons or burn off their unending energy away from other passengers, full length windows fore and aft for viewing while underway, a fully licensed bar with a back patio, video game arcade room, satellite tv, and a top deck for taking 360 degree pictures of the Sound. It’s pretty slick.
When the ship landed, Care and I drove Flash onto Southern soil and into the little hamlet Picton. The beach in town is a good place to relax – we took a nap in the grass because we’d to gotten up before dawn to catch our boat – and is a natural gathering place for other travelers. People-watching is pretty good, and there’s a small mini golf course just off the sand. After a quick swim and a spin around the local library (free wifi), Care and I headed to the Kahikatea DOC campsite on the eastern bay of the Marlborough Sounds. It was a removed location with access to the water and great hikes along the sand. We made friends with a paradise duck – they’re usually really skittish, so that was cool – and also chatted with some humans. One elderly couple, Graeme and Jackie, came over to compliment us on our van setup (mostly the twinkle lights), and next thing we know we’re sitting in their snazzy camper talking about the realities of travel, freedom camping, camper van associations, solar power, fruit picking, the harvest trail in New Zealand, glue-gun crafts, and the life that they’ve lead on the road for the past six years. They were such happy, friendly, helpful people who taught us so much about what we’re doing on our trip, but more importantly, what we might do better. It was a great encouragement for us to continue the nomadic lifestyle, and a rad way to get pumped up for the second leg of our trip.
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New Zealand Citizenship!

I just heard back from the New Zealand Citizenship Office. Guess what? As of now, I am officially a New Zealand citizen. Oh yeah. Who’s a kiwi? Oh that’s right – I am. I got the citizenship by descent through my Dad (he was born in Waimate on the South Island), and even though the process took a while, I’m beyond stoked about it. As soon as I get a passport I’ll post my sweet New Zealand passport photos. Man…so excited.

Wellington - Part Five - Freedom Camping

Alright. I’m taking this opportunity in the fifth and final installment of our (S)Wellington Extravaganza! to talk about something near and dear to my heart – Freedom Camping. Freedom Camping is the subtle art of living in a van, camper, hollowed out VW Bug, what have you, allowing travelers to enjoy a country for much longer than they could if forced to pay for conventional accommodation like hostels, campsites, or hotels. The average price of a single bed in a Wellington is $26 – not ridiculous, but the cost for Care and I to stay for 7 days would have quickly mounted to $364 for the week, without including the savage parking fees our van would have incurred (some streets charge $6 per/hr Mon – Fri 8 am – 6 pm). For just five weekdays of parking we might have had to pay $200. Not on my watch. Instead we drove 3 km outside of downtown to a lovely parking lot situated on Oriental Parade – a major street leading to the waterfront/museum district of downtown. When we pulled up we saw a half dozen other freedom campers in their garishly painted campervans all cooking, sitting out in the sun, or going for a quick swim at the adjacent sandy beach. Score. The parking lot is one of several hugging the western side of the bay, and acts as a fishing area during the daytime hours. At night, freedom campers descend on the lot which also provides a bathroom to wash up, clean dishes, and…you know…use the bathroom. Freedom camping in New Zealand is a strange tradition. It’s not illegal which is cool, but it is becoming more and more restricted in certain parts of the country. I get that some communities don’t want travelers squatting their neighborhoods, but the best and most surprising part about Wellington was that they had set aside these areas for travelers. We were never hassled about staying there, we never felt unsafe, and we had access to awesome beach front views, swimming, and amenities just a thirty minute walk into downtown Wellington. It’s funny, the city was hosting a 15 km “Fun Run” that used Oriental Parade as the route, and at 7 a.m. a race official actually came around knocking on windows informing each camper that the road would be closed for the next four hours if we needed to leave before we got trapped. It wasn’t done maliciously or with the intent to roust us from our perch. It was an actual courtesy. Care and I decided to stay and watch the race. Carolyn and I enjoyed one of our best weeks in New Zealand in Wellington, and while it was in large part due to Rich and Merridith, the great museums, cafés, and nightlife of Wellington itself, I’m not sure how much of any of that we would have been able to enjoy if we were paying over $500 to stay for one week. Freedom camping, while controversial and a negative side effect of travel to some, was the thing that really opened up doors for us in Wellington. Without it, we wouldn’t have loved Windy Welly enough to write this five part extravaganza. So, thank you Wellington. Thank you for realizing that just because some travelers don’t have a lot of money it doesn’t mean they can’t enjoy your city. Wellington is Swellington.

Wellington - Part Four - Cable Car & Gardens

Now that we’re on the downward slope of our Five Day (S)Wellington Extravaganza! I thought we’d travel uphill to enjoy the view. Wellington’s hip vibe and artsy culture are widely celebrated by tourists and locals alike – and rightly so, it’s a cool place. However, it’s easy to forget the history and pockets of tranquility that exist in this little metropolis by the sea. Two of my favorites are the Cable Car and the Botanical Gardens. The trip to the Gardens starts with the classic cable car. Situated on Lambton Quay, this centrally located treasure is a testament to the city's efforts to preserve this quaint attraction. Honestly, when Care and I bought our $2 tickets, I thought there was a mistake. I was expecting a higher price for this sweet ride up to a great view of the city, so we boarded the shiny red cable car with a weird sense of... foreboding. Within 30 seconds – literally 30 seconds – the car made its first stop. I could still see the details of our initial destination as commuters from the first stop boarded. Why would they put the stops so close together? I wondered. Oh, well. 40 seconds later we stopped again. What? More people got on and off, and the car filled up to standing room only. School kids jostled with businessmen as we all took our short slanty ride up the steep hill past Victoria University to the next stop. Wait…is this the last stop? I thought as everyone disembarked. Yup. Last stop. Three stops in under three minutes and we were at the end of the line – the top of the hill overlooking the city. If Care hadn’t had the camera ready when we got on we might have missed it all. I will say that while the ride wasn’t a San Francisco style tour of the town, it was something much more rare - a functioning mode of transport for students and commuters, that has managed to last over 100 years. At the top of the rise, views of the water and city below spread out in all directions as far as Lower Hutt on the eastern edge of the bay. We lucked out and got a clear, sunny, hot day. The area up here features a small restaurant, benches, and the start of the Botanical Gardens, as well as two astronomical observatories. I love the observation domes with their classic antique look. After a well deserved nap on a grassy slope (we have a hard life), Care and I headed down the “Rose Garden Path” enjoying flowers, trees, and plants of all sorts. Prehistoric ferns stand next to conifer trees, and dazzling lilies. I used to be a flower delivery boy in college, so I like plants. What up. Near the end of the hour long trek we came upon one of the highlights – the Lady Norwood Rose Garden. This sprawling flower garden quartered into areas depicting hybrid and pure bred roses of varying shades that march across the full spectrum of colors, and it was a relaxing break from our relaxing hike. We sat at the fountain and just…smelled stuff for a while. The path eventually leads back into downtown (near the Beehive) but not before taking pedestrians through several cemeteries dating back to the colonial settlements of the city. Some of the gravestones are worn smooth by rain, wind, neglect, and time, while others are overgrown by wild bush and ivy. A few crypts feature elaborate obelisks and well polished marble, while most are simple granite slabs with name and date. The cemeteries are a stark reminder – as always – that time is short. Without being too cliche, it was a somber end to a peaceful day, and I’m glad we had a few hours to ourselves to revel in the beauty, history, and past of Wellington before we plunged back into the bustle of city life. P.S. I don’t care what you say – I think flowers rule, and Carolyn likes that about me, don’t you Care. Care?
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Wellington - Part Three - Downtown

Part Three of our (S)Wellington Extravaganza! continues with a more in depth look at downtown and all the rad stuff to do there. Aside from our awesome time with Rich and Merridith, Care and I settled in to enjoy the other pleasures of Wellington – namely the cafés. Wellington houses more cafés per capita than any major city in the world – even Seattle – which makes perfect sense after a few days huddled around a warm cappuccino. The wind that kicks off the bay can be brutal, and is a major reason for the plethora of chain and independent java vendors. Our favorite spot in Windy Welly was a little place called “Café Mon Ami.” This little gem on Bond St., near the waterfront, the main shopping on Courtenay Street, and a stone’s throw from the museums and culture of the library and civic block was a real find. Cheap coffees and tasty croissants are just the start of this restaurant come kitsch café. They not only have excellent wi-fi service free for their patrons, but the owner/manager Francois (yes he’s actually French) runs a free bike rental service. That’s right – you give him your ID and he gives you his bike. When you’re done, come back and your ID is returned – no charge. It’s a mindset like this, as well as the comfy chairs, that sets Mon Ami apart from the slew of competition in the area, but if you’re a Francophobe, other joints like Goblin Café, and even *gasp* Starbucks are available on every corner. Literally. Care and I also enjoyed the infamous “Beehive” Parliament building on the northern edge of the waterfront. This monument to 1970’s atrocity is an eyesore/icon that somehow escapes a lot of tourists’ notice. It could be the location – way north - or the obscurity of the governmental system in New Zealand – technically a “Constitutional Monarchy" ruled by Queen Elizabeth II (not the Prime Minister, much like Canada), but I’d have to say it’s at least partly to do with the building itself. I’m no architect (although I helped build our sweet van), but the 1970’s idea of the future is pretty ridiculous. Care and I also lucked into the Chinese New Year celebration along the waterfront – a popular Wellington destination for festivals and concerts – like Homegrown (another concert we happened to hear during our stay). Downtown and the surrounds are a tightly woven mix of museums, cafés, open spaces, and places to relax and enjoy the vibe. Care and I liked it so much we even wrote this little song about it. Enjoy.

Destination Guide: Wellington, New Zealand by Shawn Forno Wellington is so much more than just the capitol of New Zealand and second largest city in the North Island. It’s a center for culture with world class museums like Te Papa – a completely free six story mecca of natural history, cultural collections, visiting world class exhibits...read more

Wellington - Part Two - Te Papa Museum

Next stop on our (S)Wellington Extravaganza!...the standout attraction in Wellington is their world class museum – Te Papa. Loosely translated as “our place”, Te Papa is a beacon of art, culture, history, and sophistication that attracts over 1 million visitors each year. Six stories and an external “Bush City” display art, natural history, and interactive exhibits intertwined amidst an ever changing tapestry of visiting shows from around the world. They even have these sweet shiny mirror thing-a-ma-jigs outside. Admission is free (suggested donation, but really who are we kidding) to all but the special collection galleries like “A Day in Pompeii” and other limited engagements, and it includes access to some mind blowing sights. Most notably, the Colossal Squid on display in the natural history section on the first floor. This specimen, encased in glass and formaldehyde, and stretched out for viewing is eerily like the alien autopsy scene in Independence Day. The total length of the squid is 4.2 meters, and the eyeballs are the size of soccer balls. Care and I spent a pretty large chunk of time in the natural history section – mostly because I’m a huge nerd – but the “Reactive Architecture” exhibit was another one that caught our attention. This green architectural think tank showcases new ways that energy is thought about in several different designs, ranging from simple umbrella photic displays to full fledged floating “barge” cities. For other examples of green architecture, check out “Building Green on Montrose”, an innovative, eco-friendly renovation of a 100-year old rowhouse in Philadelphia. We spent hours in the museum, pointing things out to each other, watching captivating movies and reenactments, taking 1840's immigration surveys, gawking at fossils, and enjoying ourselves while we soaked up New Zealand culture, art, and history. Te Papa became “our place” by the end of the day, and this amazing collection is something that every visitor to Wellington needs to make part of their trip. And don’t forget to take at least 500 pictures in front of the shiny mirror thing-a-ma-jigs out front. Yeah, in your face, Chicago Bean. New Zealand has reflectve surfaces too.
"Seen It" - a comic by Shawn Forno
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Wellington - Part One

We finally made it to Wellington! Home to Parliament, the Te Papa Museum, diverse culture, the ferry to the South Island, surf, sand, nightlife, friends, and more cafés per capita than any major city in the world, “Swellington” is just too much to write about in one post. So we’ve split this amazing metropolis into a Five Part (S)Wellington Extravaganza! Part One – Thank You Note. My mom always taught me to write thank you notes right away before you forget, so here goes – Thank you thank you so much to Rich and Merridith, and to Joan for setting us up with them. You guys were amazing tour guides and cultural ambassadors for Kiwis – never mind that Merridith is from Maryland. These two rock stars not only drove us around the cool parts of town, they made us feel like we were part of a “group” – a hard feeling to get on the road. The first stop was the beautiful rugged west side of the bay where we enjoyed even more tide pool exploration, hiked a bit, snagged some epic views, and talked about travel blogging – check out their award winning travel blog to see how the pros do it. If that wasn’t enough, they took us out to dinner and introduced Care and I to the deliciously weird Taiwanese treat – bubble tea. Even Care liked it, so that’s saying something. Just when we thought we’d worn out our welcome, the fun continued. Rich was all, “Oh hey guys, you wanna go check out my family’s rad bach?” (NZ for “beach house”). We tried to play it cool, so I was all, “Pssht, I guess. I mean we have a few minutes to kill...” And Care was like, “Whatevs, yo.” It was AWESOME. We surf kayaked (insanely fun/hard) and then got the best fresh fruit ice cream in “sunny Otaki” on the Kapiti Coast – home to the most expensive ice cream in New Zealand...per capita. Later that night they drove us up to see the view from Mt. Victoria at night. The twinkling lights that hug the bay are lovely. The hits kept coming when we went to a small group session for their church, ARISE, and got to take part in a fun evening with Kiwis in an apartment above busy Courtenay Street. It was so welcoming to interact like a local. Finally, we went to the Sunday night service of ARISE and got to see an active, young church in New Zealand – a real treat for us. The people in the congregation were wonderful, and we enjoyed a great afterglow dinner with some of them at a café. Despite all the radness, the best part of our new homies was that we finally had someone to use all of our free text messages with. We got 100 free txts within NZ when we loaded up our phone, so we blitzed them with nonsense txts. “hey bff! wut r u up 2 now guyzzzzzz? LOL! ttyl, xoxo.” Sorry yo. Rich and Merridith are stalwart travelers with huge hearts and a real sense for what it means to be away from home. The craziest thing about their selfless generosity is that they had just gotten back from their 9-month trip around the world, the day before we called them. Who has the energy to do all that for two people they’d never met, right when they got back? Rock stars – that’s who. It was the best way to experience Wellington, and Care and I will always see the city through Rich and Merridith colored glasses. That doesn’t sound quite right, but you get the idea. Thanks a million guys. Hope to see you again soon.

Destination Guide: Courtenay Street, Wellington, NZ by Shawn Forno The best food, fun, nightlife, and culture of Wellington is found on Courtenay Street. This funky locale just off Manners Mall at the south end of the civic center houses a pedestrian thoroughfare where tourists and locals alike meander past dozens of designer shops...read more

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Palmerston North

I have to start this post with the best part of Palmerston North – Judy and Steve – my Uncle David’s sister and her husband. Thanks so much guys, your hospitality was amazing. They not only put us up in their lovely home but also: Cooked us two awesome dinners. Fed us two awesome breakfasts. Let us do laundry. Taught us about rugby – go Crusaders! Gave Carolyn a camping toaster for the cooker - an incredibly thoughtful gift, and while I love the raisin toast, it sets the bar pretty high for anything I give Care in the future. Thanks a lot. Sent us on our way with parting gifts of wine, candy, and hot cross buns. But most importantly… Judy hand sewed us a Tetris “L” shaped fitted sheet to match the changes we made to the cushions in the van. The hinged area of the bed that lets us convert it to a seating area now has a removable cushion with its own sheet case. You rule, Jude. They also gave us a great insiders’ tour of Massey University (one of the biggest schools in NZ), an awesome breakfast at their friend’s coffee shop, and a spin around the central square with its park, shops, and venues for bands. We people watched for an hour, sipping cappuccinos sheltered inside from the gale force winds that occur from time to time. In fact, the wind is so strong that Palmerston not only built a huge wind farm to supply energy for the town, they were the first city to wire the surplus energy into the national grid. There is some contention about whether these massive turbines are an eyesore and noise disturbance, but I’ll leave that debate to the Kiwis. I personally think they're awesome – the wind blew so hard that when I jumped, I technically flew for at least two seconds. The only downside is that the wind blew away my braided headband that my friend Kristyn made me in Italy. Carolyn does not see the loss of this headband as a downside.
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"Inspiration" - a comic by Shawn Forno

Mt. Egmont, or Mt. "TaraNOTki"

Mt. Taranaki (the Maori name) or Mt. Egmont (the English name) is supposedly one of the most beautiful and iconic mountains in New Zealand. Its solitary snowcapped peak is so stunning that it was used as a stand-in for Mt. Fuji during the New Zealand based filming of “The Last Samurai.” Unfortunately, storm clouds and fog shrouded the mountain for a week, so we never got to see it…Mt Taranaki I mean, not “The Last Samurai"…I saw that and it was awesome. After six days of waiting around New Plymouth, Oakura, and even on the slopes of Taranaki itself, Care and I decided to give up on getting a rad picture and moved on. The slopes show potential though, and I’d love to come back on our way north and go for a hike. Until then, I’ll just rent “The Last Samurai” and practice sweet sword moves in front of my little laptop screen.
1:13 in...check it out:

Destination guide: Mount Egmont, New Zealand by Shawn Forno Mount Egmont, also known as Mount Taranaki in the local Maori language, provides one of New Zealand’s most iconic landscapes and is home to a multitude of tramping tracks, camp sites, huts, and dozens of other outdoor activities...read more

"TaraNOTki" - a comic by Shawn Forno

Oakura Tide Pools

Freedom camping is a strange thing – once you start, it’s hard to stop. The fun of freedom camping started when Care kept track of the nights we paid to camp and the nights when we found a great spot and just winged it. Over the past few weeks the list showed a growing number of freedom camping nights until the scales finally tipped to make “freedom camping” our accommodation of choice at Oakura Beach. This little stretch of boardwalk and sand 10 km south of New Plymouth isn’t all that much, just a public restroom, showers, and water taps, but waking up thirty feet from the water makes up for a lot. For example, on our second day here grey clouds moved in, snuffing out any hope of a sunny day on the shore. However, for some reason we took a nature walk along the beach to the scattered boulders and shallow tide pools just a half km from our campsite. Next thing we know we’re picking up eleven-armed sea stars (we looked it up and that’s their actual name), pointing out other smaller different starfish (which we didn’t look up, but are pretty cool regardless), getting into staring contests with crabs, touching the sticky tentacles of sea anemones, fording streams, and planting stick trees. Care loved it, and it reminded me of home. What can I say, living for free is addicting.
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The Three Sisters

The atlas that came with our van has these great little icons for all sorts of interesting places to hike, camp, surf, and generally…see stuff. To Carolyn’s never-ending frustration it even has Lord of the Rings film location sites, like Mt. Doom. The icon for these spots is – you guessed it – a golden ring. Anyway, a different one of these icons - a shiny star - is for geographical landmarks, which is cool because as extensive as our *cough* “research” is, we could never read about every great thing to see and do in New Zealand. So, luckily it was one of these icons that showed us the location for today's blog. A place called “The Three Sisters.” When we pulled over at the location of this site we just followed the brown signs and parked by the beach. More signs pointed us to a short hike around a cliff. Only problem was that the tide was obviously coming in and the cliff blocked whatever it was we were supposed to see. After a second of "what do you wanna do? I dunno, what do you wanna do?" we ignored the rising tide which promised to cut off our exit. What can I say, we had faith in that little star on the map. It’s a good thing we did. The Three Sisters is this amazing rock formation jutting out of the water along the rugged sandstone coast. It’s a lot like the Twelve Apostles on the Great Ocean Road in Melbourne, Australia. Erosion wore away the soil around the base of each pillar leaving each majestically stranded in the sea. Turns out a few years ago one of the pillars fell over, so technically it’s just the Two Sisters, but there are a few other bluffs and arches forming, so I’m sure the two ladies will have a younger sibling in a few hundred years. In case you’re wondering, yes, the tide did come in, and yup, we got pretty wet walking/swimming back to the van. But we loved our little off the grid adventure because we didn’t have any expectations, so they were more than exceeded. We love not knowing what each day will bring, and while we might get a little wet for not planning according to the tide charts, the adventures are worth the smelly shoes.
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Carolyn Gets Older in New Zealand

Today is my 27th birthday, which I've been told bumps me from my fun and carefree "mid-20's" to my old and worrisome "late-20's". While living in a van in New Zealand hardly fills my life with anxiety, I still can't escape from the word "old" just based on the fact that I've been around since the early 80's...that's almost vintage! So I hadn't exactly been looking forward to this day, but then I came across a touching letter that was written to me 23 years ago.

Well that proves it! I'm not old! If I were, I'd be living somewhere in Alabama married to my preschool boyfriend, Luke. Whew, that was a close one. See ya tomorrow, I'm off to enjoy my youth! Oh and before I go - it's my birthday so I can do whatever I want.

Shaun Rice Age: older than you think

Our Endless Summer - Raglan

Have you ever seen The Endless Summer, arguably the most influential surf movie ever made? No? You should, it’s awesome. Anyway, this 1966 classic follows two surfers on their quest for perfect waves in a season jumping jaunt around the world. One of their most impressive stops is the little known (at the time) break at Raglan, on the west coast of the North Island, New Zealand. The movie catalogues the insanely consistent break with a peeling left that stretches over 100 meters. For you landlubbers, that’s a looong wave. I was obviously stoked to surf “the best left in the world.” However, when we finally got to Raglan – which was a few hundred km out of our way to Wellington – I was greeted with an ocean as flat and smooth as glass. Seriously, no waves at all. Anger. Disappointment. Waste of gas money? What happened to everything magically working out for us without any planning? How is it possible that one of the most reliable waves in the world pooped out on the one day I came to shred it? That’s right – I said “shred.” Meh. It happens. I guess the summer had to end sometime. It just stinks that it ended when I came to see it. Maybe next time I head up to Raglan I’ll even...oh, I dunno...check the surf report.
The drive to Raglan wasn't a total waste - here are some pics from the beautiful Waikato region. This photo album requires Flash. If your device does not support Flash, you can view the web album on Picasa.